Look at that fat noodle! Gouda finally outgrew his baby hide so it was time to upgrade him. He was wearing that thing more like a hat XD Bottom pic is him in his new and improved hide in the rack. He loves it! Fits him much better now. This little piggy is growing like a weed!
I don’t understand why people have snakes but keep them in rows and rows of tiny little plastic drawers?
Is that really okay, because it doesn’t seem it? Or do they come out or, I don’t know. I don’t understand.
Yes, they do usually come out. But most species of snake kept in tubs prefer to have small, warm, enclosed spaces to hide in otherwise they can easily become stressed and then many other problem arise. So yes, its safe for most species kept in the tubs.
I am not however saying all species can be kept in tubs. Some species require much more room than a tub can offer.
In other words, it depends on the species.
My ball pythons have responded very well to being in their rack! Since I moved their tubs into the rack I have noticed Cheddar and Havarti, my shy kids, hanging out outside of their hides a LOT. So yeah, some snakes do very well in tub/rack systems :) My ball pythons LOVE it!
Neighbors found this guy in the back yard and decapitated it …Is it a bad snake or good? I swear I’d be the first one to die when it comes to identify a snake. ;3;
there is no such thing as a “good snake” or a “bad snake” when it comes to species.
however, this is a deadly coral snake, but they’re very shy and don’t go out of their way to hurt people. they have no reason to. what an asshole to decapitate a creature that had no intention of hurting him. if he was scared that it would hurt him or his family, he could have called animal control and they could have safely relocated it.
fucking pigs. if you want to have a way to remember which ones are deadly and which ones are not, remember this rhyme: “red touch yellow could kill a fellow, red touch black won’t hurt jack”
I will make a note about the ‘deadly’ part.
” Only two documented fatalities were attributed to this species in the 1950s, and only one has been reported since Wyeth antivenin became available for it in the 1960s. The most recent fatality attributed to the eastern coral snake occurred in 2006 (confirmed in 2009 report). The victim failed to seek proper medical attention and died several hours after being bitten, becoming the first fatality caused by M. fulvius in over 40 years.” [x]
I’ll let those numbers sink in with everyone.
And as I just said to a friend in a private message, ” you are more likely to be bitten by something without a mouth than a coral snake” They are very shy and super reluctant to bite. ((seriously, more people are bitten by hognose every year))
Coral snakes are super chill and are actually great to have around your house/farm/ wherever because they control rodent population and other snake population as well. And since they bite so infrequently and are so easy to see they’re super easy to deal with safely.
I’d like to add that these guys are pretty small and can be easily contained. Just get a little bucket and a stick. Lay the bucket on its side, providing a covered place that looks safe. Then just use the stick to guide the snake into the bucket. Turn it right side up and your little snake is trapped. Then call local animal control or, if you have one, a local herp group to pick it up. Here in Austin there are herpers who will gladly pick up your “pest” snakes. These guys and other venomous snakes are valuable to places like the Kentucky Reptile Zoo who use snake venom in important medical research. These guys can do us humans loads of good in the right hands! Please consider safe capture and relocation in place of just killing these beautiful animals! Are you too timid to try to contain the snake? That’s okay! Just call your local animal control instead. Just please PLEASE don’t kill snakes on sight. They’re very important to our eco system!
actually, speaking of remi,
That’s exactly how I heat my rats for my snakes ((in the hot water)) So I doubt that’s the issue. Most likely he is just off feed for some reason or another. Have you tried putting a blanket or something over his feeding bin to simulate a dark environment? that may help.
Possibly, but what’s bugging me is that after a while he does pay attention to rat, like he used to when he wasn’t off feed. He gets all in position/tense and all, but he just doesnt go for it, and I can’t help but feel like it’s because I can’t get it warm enough.
I could try that! His enclosure’s already dark as hell when the lights are off, so
Jaqen has done that a few times to me before, the way I usually deal with that is to wait another 10 minutes after getting him riled up the first time and offer again. he usually takes it the second time? Maybe they’re just caught off guard and not ready to eat? Who knows, snakes are weird.
Sometimes I like to get my problems eaters excited to eat before I actually feed them. I have a little paper bag full of used rodent bedding that I use. I open the tub and fan some of the smell from the bedding into the tub and usually I see hungry little snoots poke out within seconds. Then when I introduce the food a few minutes later they’re all ready to eat and strike instantly. This doesn’t work on everyone, but it’s a fun trick I’ve gotten some mileage out of :)
Reblogging this lovely list because these are my boy Gouda’s siblings. Gouda is a wonderful snake and he’s growing like a weed! Take a look at these babies!
Here’s another interesting thing that happened this weekend. Otachi, my western hognose snake, dropped about 5 egg slugs (that I’ve found so far). I was very much not expecting this! She hasn’t been looking fat or anything. I think I was so concerned with the wonky look to her scales before her shed that I may have overlooked some things. Well, she shed just fine and all her scales are looking bright and amazing. But then there was these slugs about a week later.
I think I might have accidentally brumated her over the winter. It was a colder than usual winter and I did have some problems trying to get her cage temps right. She went off feed, which I was told she wouldn’t likely do). I have no male hogs at the moment, so there was no boyfriend to fertilize her eggs. I almost bought a male at the same time as I bought her, but I passed, for some reason. I wish I hadn’t because I could be swimming in hoggie eggs right about now :D Ah well, no big deal.
Once I figured out that these squishy things were slugs, my panic subsided and I tossed them out. They were soft and squishy and pretty weird XD No calcium shell to them, just gummy grossness. They were interesting, though. Ah, my adventures in owning Otachi XD
viviere said: Which model do you have exactly? The adult one on their website is greyed out. And does the heat tape all connect into one outlet or are there multiple ones per shelf? It looks awesome!
Er, I have one of the economy lines, the one that’s listed in the quick ship area. I think it’s listed under Juvenile on the economy page. Each shelf holds either a single 32 qt sterilite tub or 2 15 qt sterilite tubs. The heat tape is all connected and it’s basically one big long strip that snakes through the whole rack in quite an ingenious way IMO. The whole thing is hooked up to the one thermostat. Not great if you want to split your rack between different types of snakes that have different heat requirements, but it’s great for a collection of snakes that need the same heat. I very much recommend this rack!
crispyfishsticks said: Ahhh those labels are cute! APPROVAL. And go figure all the snakes would poop at once LOL.
My labels don’t look quite as nice as yours, but they work nicely! :D Many thanks for the idea! And I think the pooping might have been a case of peer pressure. Havarti shed and pooped and I’m sure the other two smelled his deed and figured they’d be part of the cool crowd if they did the same. 9__9 Young, impressionable snakes.
Okay, I promised a better pic of the new snake rack and here it is! My phone still didn’t do a great job, but it’s better than nothing. I’ve got four of my five ball pythons set up in the rack and they’re pretty happy to be there. In the big tubs are Havarti, Gruyere, and Cheddar. The small tub is for Gouda and the empty one is for Ricotta when she’s done with quarantine. The bottom shelf is reserved for the last ball python who will be added in May.
This is an Animal Plastics economy line rack. The quality is excellent, though! I love it to bits. Very sturdy and it looks so nice. I expect I’ll probably buy another just like it when my hognose snake collection starts to grow (I’ve got plans). I’ve got a Redline Herpstat 2 hooked up and it works great (got the Redline because the vendor was out of the regular line, but I don’t regret spending the extra $10). So yeah, I’m all set!
I’m loving how easy to clean these tubs are. I came home from an Austin Herp Society meet this Saturday night only to find that three of the four snakes in the stack had left big fat poops in their tubs. Clean up was fast and easy. Whoever thought up keeping snakes in racks deserves a dang medal! Soooo much better than aquariums! Also, I stole the idea of making labels for my snakes from crispysnakes because I’m an organization beast.
Snake rack assembled!! :D Sorry for the wonky phone pic. We got the rack assembled and we’re taking the herpstat for a test drive. Snakes should start moving in this weekend :D
OMG!! My rack is finally here!! :D This is my first snake rack so I’m pretty excited about it. It’s for my lovely ball pythons. I’ll post more pics once it’s set up. For now I’m going to try to figure out how to get my Herpstat running…
Here are some quick examples of the different weight classes for cresties:
Note: These are babies but are also a good example of a very, very skinny crested.
Regular/healthy weight IMO:
A good reference, but I have to ask.
What the FUCK is going on with that first baby’s eye???????
The description from the owner of the picture stated: "Unfortunately, May isn’t. She is now 1.7 g, smaller than when she hatched. She has at least one visible developmental abnormality, so she may have invisible ones as well, that make it harder for her to eat or grow."
I’ve personally seen on forums other cresties having “bubble eyes” and I think I read it has something to do with a bacterial infection causing swelling?
Yea, I’ve seen bubble eyes before, just never one that big. I also didn’t notice it right away so I was just “oh yea I see that sure is a skinny cres-woAH WHAT IS THAT”
Took a look at that bubble eyed baby on the original post and woah! There’s some red flags going up here. That baby is in rough shape. I very much doubt that gecko will “grow into” that eye. Also, I’m a bit disturbed that this little one has already lost digits to a bad shed. Um, that doesn’t just happen over night. It takes a while for a bad shed to cut off circulation enough to kill fingertips. A reptile keeper should have noticed the stuck shed and taken care of it with very shallow warm soaks and some cotton swabs before it got that bad. Gives me a bad feeling…
Something that’s been bothering me lately is I see a lot of reblogs for Rosaline calling her chubby and such, and then others get concerned about her being overweight. I’m so happy that you guys all like Rosaline, I love her to death. But what I’ll be addressing here is weight on your geckos.
This post is to put a stop to that right now, because she is not overweight at all.
In the first (left) picture, this was her producing eggs. She was being fed Repashy and ate generously. That body type, to me - a breeder - isn’t prime for a breeding female crested gecko. It was her first season, and she did very well laying eggs regardless of her body type. She was only a year and a half old when she was bred.
Now the picture on the right, which was taken earlier this week (this past Saturday), is her currently. She is not gravid, but is sitting at 50 grams at 2 years and 4 months old. She eats very well on the Pangea Complete diet. This is a well fed (she is fed every 2 to 3 days), ADULT female crested gecko. If she were ten grams smaller she would look very different.
There IS such a thing as body typing when it comes to geckos. Some carry weight differently than others just as humans do.
Rosaline as an example, could very easily out run you if she were to go into a sprint - which I actually witnessed this passed weekend during picture time. She jumps just fine, she does everything just fine.
She IS chunky, but it’s a healthy chunky. Not a health depriving, horrid egg productions, overweight. ALL females after their first season usually will gain more weight than previous, especially as they age. Rosaline is also a large gecko herself, so she carries her weight just fine.
I’m not quite sure what else to cover here, but if any of you have any further questions I would be more than happy to answer them. I take this sort of thing a bit too personally because I love each and everyone of my geckos, and I make sure that they are in tip top shape, and in the best of health. ESPECIALLY females, before they go into their laying season as egg production is very taxing for them.
Gonna drop in and agree 100% with Risque here. This is one healthy looking crestie! This is not even close to overweight. Rosalind looks a lot like my own Chamomile (in fact they could almost be related XD) and she’s the healthiest gecko I own. Cham was a very nice 50g at the start of February when I started breeding her and she has so far produced many healthy clutches for me. Her eggs are always perfectly smooth and her babies are always bright eyed and healthy.
I know I make comments about chubby geckos when posting. I say things like “oh look at that cute chubby gecko” and “cute fatties” and stuff like that, but that is never meant to imply that a gecko is overweight or unhealthy. I will never call a sick gecko cute. Sick can mean both over and under weight. There’s nothing cute about a sick animal.
That said, I want to reiterate that the gecko in the original post here is gorgeous and looks marvelously healthy! Such a beautiful gal!